In his first collection for Burberry, he deliberately stripped away fashion and romanticized the proletariat.
Wednesday – 1 Shaaban 1444 AH – 22 February 2023 AD Issue no. 
London: Jamila Halafisi
Daniel Lee’s work has been difficult since the moment he announced the news of his acceptance of the artistic management of the house “Burberry”. Since then, everyone has been waiting to see what he would gift the house founded in 1856 by a young man like him, no more than 21 years old named Thomas Burberry.
This legacy can weigh on anyone. How can he protect it, renew it, and elevate it at the same time? Daniel Lee did not disappoint and the audience gave him a standing ovation; He gave them back the British spirit and nothing else.
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Last Monday evening, he confirmed that he was fit for duty; Because he was more interested in embracing the British spirit than his guests and Burberry customers. On Monday evening, Daniel closed the fourth day of “Fashion Week Autumn-Winter 2023” and wrote a new chapter in the history of the house. This is his first offer and what can be said about the designer is that he was brave enough to translate everything British into a language that is shocking but has an idea behind it. His presentation was a return to his roots, with his style being whimsical and mischievous at times. The designer said her collection wanted to celebrate Britain, which is so artistic and creative, that she brings to life in every aspect of it. His rendition of this celebration was summed up in a performance of unmistakable excitement and confidence…it was evident on the faces of the audience and the dignitaries present; Former home designer Christopher Bailey, Stormzy, Naomi Campbell, Vanessa Redgrave and more.
The space was decorated with blankets with square patterns, and a hot water bottle was placed on each seat, which the designer saw as part of popular British culture. He draped it with a woolen tartan, elevating it from practicality to luxury and making it a suitable gift for guests. It was his attempt to warm the proletariat. The location in East London has nothing to do with fashion, but it has an interesting story. It is in the Kennington area, famous for a case that stirred public opinion in 1969, and its heroes were homeless people who occupied houses there after hearing that the government intended to demolish them to build luxury buildings. For more than 30 years, there was a case between them and the local authorities. The story was accompanied by warm decor and welcomed attendees with a hot chocolate drink, and illustrated the poetic lines that accompanied the digital invitations: “If you don’t have a shelter, I’ll shelter you…feeling cold; I’ll give you warmth…etc.”
Perhaps here lies Daniel’s courage: to deconstruct elegance in its romantic form and to move forward from this point of having nothing to do with elegance, to present a collection that reaches the world and specifically addresses the youth segment. In it, he succeeded in breaking the norm by making the proletariat practical, and practical young and energetic. Some designs were inspired by classic lines, especially suits, coats and jackets, but after stripping them down they took on a purely industrial and practical character.
Square engravings printed most pieces (specialty).
The parade began with two coats with large fake fur collars; It’s a bit fluffy and doesn’t look neat. Following a cascade of designs printed with squares, this is the house’s registered trademark. These squares include long and short dresses, as well as sweaters, skirts, and socks. Coats were characterized by new stripes, which received larger sizes, and dropped arms without clear shoulders. Others were arranged in what looked like a “house robe” with a blue velvet coat tied with a belt. The colors were loud, defying the gloom of the British weather, and the patterns went for pictures of ducks and roses in unnatural colors. Daniel Lee’s description after the show: “Ducks are part of the British landscape, without them there wouldn’t be a London garden.” As for his explanation of painting roses blue, it was illustrated by a “T-shirt” on which he wrote: “Roses don’t need to be red.” Another “T-shirt” reads: “Winds of Change”, representing the change the house and Britain are currently undergoing.
Even this huge variety of designs, colors, materials and ideas did not come about by chance. On the contrary; It is calculated and studied; Because that’s what new chief executive Jonathan Ageroyd is betting heavily on. He wants the house’s revenue to cross the £5 billion ceiling in a few years. And the home-made raincoat is not the only paper to reach for, as it has been with its owner for a long time without changing its appearance or reducing its value due to its strength and classiness. This is the goal. It was imperative that Danielle Lee offer diversity in both fashion and accessories.
It is noteworthy that shoes and handbags underwent a process of elimination and appeared in shapes that the previous generation would not have considered elegant. But that doesn’t matter. It is primarily directed at the youth segment; Because the wind of change touches them more. The shapes of the shoes, for example, sometimes inspired construction workers’ shoes; And cavalry boots, on the other hand. Pie came in forms that found its way to Instagram. With this, Daniel Lee’s field touch hits “Burberry” as much as “Botega Veneta” hits during his reign from 2018 to 2021.
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